By Jeanette Mill
I decided to take the plunge to coordinate a paddling trip. I had recently been to a wonderful spot called Wingan Inlet and decided the club had to see this place. It is in far Eastern Victoria, in Croajingolong National Park. I had paddled to the Skerries, a rocky outcrop just off the entrance to Wingan Inlet to view the colony of Australian Fur Seals (actually Cape Fur Seals, but more of that later).
We gathered at Mallacoota Camping Park on Good Friday. It was a rather windy afternoon when we arrived, so those who were assembled headed to Gipsy Point and paddled up the peaceful Wallagaraugh River, which feeds into the Mallacoota Lake system at its northern end. It was a leisurely paddle to stretch out after a long drive. Newcomers to paddling, Helen and Joe, took no time at all to accustom themselves to the double Pittarak we picked up from Frank and Michiko Bakker on the way down.
Back at camp the rest of the gang had arrived (making a healthy total of 11) and at the prompting of the youngest member of the group (Rowan, aged 9) had already visited the pub. What are kids coming to these days, I ask?
It was great to have Jacqui Windh amongst us after an absence of two years in the northern latitudes. Summer seemed to have finished and we huddled in the Marsh/Crofts tent to cook dinner and fill Jacqui in on the events of the last two years. Arunas waxed lyrical about macho deeds like smashing boats. I think she was impressed.
We resolved to go to Wingan Inlet the next day via various means – some paddling, some driving – and stay at the overnight camping area, the bookable sites having been booked out early in the year .
As dawn broke tent poles clacked as Jacqui, Arunas and last minute Jim (who decided at about 2am) packed their boats to paddle the 32km to Wingan. We waved them off into the glow of the sunrise, and packed for our trip to the bush. We took pity on Jenni who had about 10 tents to pack in Jim’s noted absence, and in no time the Marsh/Croft Magna was packed to the gunnels with kids, real people and gear.
We joked as we left that if it rained we would get stuck in at Wingan because the road becomes impassable, and wouldn’t that be a shame. We packed for a long stay.
I was somewhat relieved on our arrival that the promised bloody huge goannas were indeed present in whatever the collective noun for goannas is. The customers were happy – the goods were delivered. The goannas were pretty happy about our delivery of goods to them too and proceeded to attempt to empty Andrew’s Esky.
The campsite is set in bush beside Wingan Inlet 2km by foot track and 1km as the sea kayak travels from the entrance to the sea. Last time I was here the breeze carried the cacophony of whatever the collective noun is for seals to the campsite. After lunch we set off for the beach. I had my usual accurate premonition as to when the pod (I knew that one) of paddlers would arrive, and as we reached the beach they were hovering off the Skerries watching the seals.
It had been a reasonably challenging 7hr paddle into a headwind. Various versions of why they were not allowed to land were tucked away as great debate fodder for the evenings Trangia convention.
Andrew thoughtfully sacrificed 2/4 of a four-piece paddle to the surf gods. Hopefully they would be appeased and send us suitable conditions to take everyone to the Skerries tomorrow.
The presence of a convenient picnic table concentrated the Trangias such that great confusion ensued, causing Jim Croft to carve an M on everything in sight -because he couldn’t carve a J or a C with a knife. His excuse was M stood for Mine and Marsh. Being a Mill, I didn’t object.
We wracked our collective brains to come up with the collective noun for the swans we had seen that day, and came up with Symphony. A prize of a spare pair of Trangia spondonicals (now, is that a real word?) without an M carved in (if we can find one) to the person who can accurately verify or refute this.
Next morning Arunas and Jacqui paddied off into the sunrise together again, minus Jim – three being a crowd. (Is that smutty enough for you Mr Ed? I can do better) [On the contrary Jeanette, that’s quite romantic of you – Ed].
The surf gods were indeed appeased and conditions were perfect in the morning for crossing the confused slop of the bar to paddle to the Skerries. Andrew gave Joe a quick lesson in bracing. Joe later reported that in going out he just pointed at whatever wave was coming at him (no mean feat when they’re coming from all directions), and wondered why this bracing stuff was necessary. Once safely out there and with his mind turned to the return trip it dawned on him.
Jim steamed back and forth in the double, ferrying his family out for a look. Meanwhile we cruised up and down the km or so length of the outcrop marvelling at the experience of being close to a large collective noun of intelligent mammals. They were equally intrigued and the young ones slid into the water to greet us while the large-maned males observed with a stately pose from the vantage point of the rocks. The pups swam right up and splashed us with their flippers, while a mob of unruly teenagers (Ashley, aged 12 3/4 was taking notes) followed us everywhere we went. Every time we turned to look there would be several dozen heads bobbing in the water, large brown eyes fixed on us, and a few that would dive upon being spotted. The variety of sounds – many different calls, grunts, snorts, noisy exhaling – was quite staggering. They were probably imitating the gross sounds of a sea kayaker who has just rolled and filled their inverted sinuses, as this is a great way to watch 1 the creatures at their most graceful – underwater .
I was interested to learn from a colleague on my return to work that Australian Fur Seals are actually a sub-species of the South African Cape Fur Seal. For the taxonomically minded they are Arctocephalus pusillus doriferus. There are two types of seals. One type includes the Fur Seals, Sea Lions and Walruses. The hind flippers can be brought forward, and the animal can walk in a fashion. The front of the body can be raised in the characteristic pose of these animals. They also have external ear flaps. The other type basically I looks like a big slug with flippers. This group includes the Harp, Leopard and Crabeater Seals. On land or frozen water they move by sort of blobbing along, but have been known to attain speeds of 25km/h on ice. They have no external ear flap. Underwater, of course, they move gracefully, Fur Seals et al using their fore-flippers to “fly” through the water.
Australian Fur Seals mostly occur in Victoria and Tasmania. The population on the Skerries is one of eleven breeding colonies. The Montague Island mob are a non-breeding colony. Whilst feeding on their diet of fish, squid, octopus and rock lobster, they dive to depths of 12Om.
Everyone was buzzing after such a rewarding morning. The afternoon saw a change of scene with a leisurely paddle, up Wingan Inlet to the beautiful cascading Wingan Rapids. We packed our lilos for a possible exploration of the river upstream of the rapids. Rainforest cloaked the river banks, and carpets of 1 mosses and lichens softened the scene 1 further. It was unspoilt, remote, the water was clear and there was nobody around. Perfect for a skinny dip (it’s hotting up, Mr Ed.), if it wasn’t so bloody freezing. The surf gods obviously not being the only deities active in the region, I sacrificed a pair of sunglasses to the waterfall gods.
We explored upstream, but boulder chokes dashed any hopes of a hoon on the lilos. As a relative newcomer I a mused that the bloody huge goannas who made their home at these rapids were the descendents of probably even huger creatures who had been calling this place home for millions of years. What a good thing we humans have thought to protect it.
The ominous patter of rain set in sometime during the night. We awoke to the a grim realisation that our return to reality might have to occur prematurely if we a weren’t to be forced to endure this hell-hole for several more days.
Then things got really interesting. Joe and Helen refused to leave their tent. What could they have been up to, these star-crossed lovers? We tried cajoling, abusing, coaxing, threatening, but being nice people we drew the line at dropping their wet tent on them. Then wonder-teen Ashley hit upon the right formula. The aroma of a strong, freshly brewed cup of coffee. He expertly cobbled together the necessary ingredients and left, it as an offering on their doorstep. It was whisked inside and consumed to grunts and groans of pleasure, much oohing and ahhing, and when finished, they finally emerged, smiling and satisfied.
Finally we could try to beat the rain gods and leave. The slippery, slidy journey to the bitumen was an experience that bonded us so tightly we all descended as 1 group on Frank and Michiko in Cooma for a cup of tea. We recounted tales of the silly front wheel drive Magna being driven up the steeper hills with Andrew and Rick as ballast on the bonnet and Jim’s head sticking out the drivers side window to see where he was actually steering the thing. I slid gracefully off the camber attempting to pass another silly front wheel drive that had got stuck, and bravely sacrificed myself to the mud gods.
I guess the weekend was a success. Joe threw his arms around me and said it was the best thing he’s ever done. I assume he was referring to the paddling bit, not the coffee. So I will put it on the calendar again, but in summer, when it NEVER rains in Victoria, it stays light until bedtime, and it’s warm enough to skinny-dip.
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