Christopher Cunningham, the author of this article, is the Editor of Sea Kayaker magazine, USA. Chris is also a very good paddler who has done some ambitious trips, including (if my ageing memory serves me correctly) a voyage down the Mississippi River from beginning to end. In addition to his paddling, Chris is a skilled woodworker who has researched and built a number of traditional Inuit kayaks and museum models, including a full sized King Island kayak replica.
His magazine, Sea Kayaker, contains how-to-do-it articles like this one (reprinted from the Fall 1994 edition of Sea Kayaker), as well as stories about new gear and sea kayaking trips all over the world. The magazine is available in Australia at some newsagents and by subscription (see the Sea Kayaker advertisement in this issue for further details).
This article is a gold mine of information about building a plywood sea kayak. The offsets can be used as printed to produce a very nice hull, or they can be condensed along the “X” axis for a shorter version. I multiplied the horizontal measurements by a factor of 0.88 to come up with the first of my Greenlander hulls (15′ 6″). The beauty of a plywood chine hull is that once the panels are cut out, the hull shape can be changed by merely trimming or adding to the edges of the plywood where they join (after first temporarily tying the panels together with wire). Rocker can be added or subtracted by the way the two bottom sheets are curved where they meet. I departed a long way from the offsets when I built my most recent Greenlander in which the maximum beam is carried much further aft. However, without the offsets for a starting place, creating a different design would be a lot harder. I have built four plywood Greenlanders so far, and each one has had its own unique characteristics as I experimented with various hull shapes.
I prefer to use sheer clamps (stringers along the top of the hull) to nail and glue the deck to the hull rather than taping the joins inside and out – a nasty job. I also changed the deck to have a tortured plywood foredeck with a two-piece sweeping curve from cockpit to bow and a cambered afterdeck. In order to achieve this deck shape, I had to install plywood deck beams at intervals.
Chris has constructed a retractable skeg in a removable skeg box in his boat, which is a good idea. I built this arrangement for my first plywood Greenlander (using a cut-down windsurfer rudder). However, I found that these designs don’t need a skeg (much less a rudder) and handle very well on all points of paddling.
With the cost of kits imported from the US being outrageously high, this article offers an inexpensive way of obtaining a good wooden kayak. In addition, in this Tupperware world, there is nothing quite like paddling a kayak which you built with your own hands.
While there is much to recommend a traditional Greenland kayak to contemporary paddlers, a skin-on-frame version may not appeal to most paddlers. A plywood version of the same design though, offers all of the performance of the original and is easily adapted to contemporary outfitting and equipment.
The hard-chine hull form and flat deck surfaces of the Greenland design make it ideal for translation into an easy-to-build stitch-and-glue plywood kayak. The 18′ by 21 1/2″ kayak presented here is only slightly modified from traditional Greenland lines. 1 have flattened the bottom a bit for greater initial stability and taken out a bit of the rocker for better tracking.
I’ve made no accommodation for a rudder on the stern; the kayak turns beautifully when leaned. The retractable skeg provides an easy way to stiffen tracking and tune out weathercocking. Its position well forward of the stern keeps the skeg from coming out of the water in a seaway. Bulkheads provide for storage compartments and buoyancy in the ends of the kayak and give it strength (the plywood’s buoyancy will keep the kayak from sinking if swamped but it doesn’t preclude the need for flotation). The recessed deck line fittings are strong and won’t interfere with rescue operations. The flush hatches and their hardware are also designed to keep the decks clear. Bungie cords criss-cross the deck for holding deck cargo and a spare paddle. The line at the perimeter of the deck is nylon cord to give positive control of the kayak during rescue operations.
The cost in materials for this kayak is about $500 (US prices). The building of it requires only modest woodworking skills and tools and takes only a few weeks of evenings and weekends.
While you can glue up the panels on a flat floor and assemble the kayak on a set of saw horses, it is worth the effort to build a building table 2′ wide and 18′ long, framed with 2 x 6’s and 2 x 4’s and topped with 1/2″ plywood. It should be straight and flat. Snap a chalk line 3/4″ from one side of the table and nail a 1/4″ x 3/4″ batten (either in one continuous length or in sections) along the line. Snap another line down the centre of the table.
Saw the plywood according to the cutting diagrams. The bottom and side panels are scarfed together from two and three pieces respectively. The deck pieces are put on in sections and need not be scarfed.
The easiest way to cut the scarf joints is to stack the panel sections and stagger them like a flight of stair steps, An extra ‘step’ of scrap plywood at the top will ensure that all the panel sections are accurately scarfed. Push each panel section 32 mm back from the one under it to make the ‘stairs’. Drag a sharp pencil along the angle between each ‘tread’ and ‘riser’. Use a couple of clamps (upside down to keep the handles out of the way) to hold the panel sections together.
Slide your plane down the ‘steps’. Start with the blade set fairly deep to knock off the corners and finish up with the blade set fine to shave the ramp smooth. Press down hard on the plane to force the layers together and work down to a feather edge, but don’t drag the heel of the plane up the, ramp, it will snag the edges. Work down to the pencil lines.
Give the surface some tooth for gluing with a piece of 80- or 100-grit sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. Be careful not to sand uphill and snag the feather edges.
Lay the three pieces of a side panel end to end on the worktable, with the scarfs overlapping. Align the panels sections with the batten. To keep the panels from moving out of position drive a few staples (or hammer a few tacks) in them well away from the scarfs. Slip a sheet of waxed paper under the joints and mix up some epoxy following the manufacturer’s instructions (heed the warnings and wear gloves). Brush glue on both sides of the scarf and let the scarf fall together. Drive a few staples through the overlap and tap them flush with a hammer – since I’ve chosen to paint the kayak for better visibility I’m not to concerned with staple holes and dimples. Lay waxed paper over the joints. Set up the sections of the second side panel above the first with the joints overlapping.
After you’ve glued the scarfs of both side panels you can add the two-piece bottom panels to the stack and glue them up. When you have the side and bottom panels all stacked and glued, clamp or weight some 2 x 4’s over all the joints to apply some pressure to the joints. Epoxy doesn’t need a hard squeeze to make a good bond, just good contact. After the glue has cured, sand flat any excess epoxy around the scarf joints.
Use the tables on the following pages to mark points along the upper and lower edges of the panel. Tape a metric ruler to the short leg of a framing square. Set one of the side panels on the work surface against the straight edge and hold it in place with a few staples (if the panel doesn’t lie even against the batten, check the offsets to see where the “Y Low” offsets are zero. If the “Y=0” part of the panel is not against the batten, adjust the ruler on the framing square so its zero point is at the edge of the panel when the framing square is set against the batten). Pull your tape measure across the middle of the panel from left to right. A couple of spring clamps will help keep the tape in place.
Read the “X” distance first and slide the framing square until the edge of the ruler is to that position on the tape measure. Then read the “Y” distance up from the batten along the ruler. In each list of numbers you’ll find pairs of points designated as bulkhead locations. Join these points with a straightedge. There are points on the keel marking the skeg opening, and on the centrelines of the deck pieces marking the locations of the hatches, cockpit and skeg.
Once you have all of the points marked, un-staple the panel from the work surface and slide it away from the batten. To draw a smooth line through the points you’ll need a smooth and straight fairing batten roughly 20′ x 3/4″ x 1/4″ (you may have to scarf the fairing batten together using lengths of moulding or strips cut from a plank). Set the fairing batten flat on the plywood panel. Hold it in place with one edge along each row of offset points with weights or brads. Squat down and ‘eyeball’ the batten from each end. Take note of any irregularities of the curve and adjust them by moving the batten slightly. The goal is to get a smooth curve from one end to the other as close as possible to the offset points. With a pencil trace a smooth line along the batten. Draw the straight ends of the side panels with a straight edge set across the ends of the upper and lower lines. Where the offsets describe tight curves you can use the fairing batten on edge or use another more limber batten for those sections of the curves.
Stack each marked panel on its mate and staple the two together, but not to the work surface, with 1/4″ staples at the perimeter and a few spots down the middle of the panel. Saw the panels out with a saber saw cutting a couple of millimetres to the outside of the line.
Use a plane to finish the panel edges right to the line. A block of wood clamped to the bottom of the plane keeps the plane square to the face of the panel.
After you’ve worked the bottom, side, and side deck pieces in pairs, cut the fore deck, the aft deck, and the centre deck. These three pieces are symmetrical; their port and starboard edges are measured out from a centreline drawn down the middle of the sheet. Mark and label the points along the centreline that locate the hatches, skeg, and cockpit.
Mark the 19.5 x 2 cm slot for the skeg trunk opening and cut it out. Make the pattern for the hatches and trace it on the fore deck and aft deck. You’ll be using the cut-out for the hatch cover so don’t drill a starter hole for the saber saw. Instead use a utility knife to cut a 1 mm wide slot for the saw blade. Saw to the outside of the line and make the cut as smooth and as accurate as possible. For each hatch trace the pattern onto two pieces of 4 mm plywood. With the pattern still in place use a compass to draw a line 20 mm outside the pattern line. Cut both pieces (two for each hatch) to the outside of the line. Saw one piece, the spacer ring, to the inside of the pattern tracing (the oval in the middle is waste). On the other piece, the flange, use the compass to draw a line 40 mm, inside the outer edge. Cut a l mm pilot slot and cut along the inside line; the inside pieces are the hatch cover backs (to be glued to the underside of the hatch cover), and the rings are the flanges (to be glued under the openings in the decks). Glue a spacer and a flange to the underside of each deck.
If you don’t have a lot of small clamps on hand, you can make a few dozen split pipe ring clamps from 2″ or 3″ plastic drain pipe. Hacksaw the pipe into 1/2″ wide rings. Split the rings with a single saw cut. Voila, cheap ‘C’ clamps.
For each hatch, cut a pair of 2 1/4″ diameter holes along the centreline. Set the hatch cover back on the work surface and set the deck over it. Place the hatch cover in the deck opening and trace the outlines of the two 2 1/4″ holes. Remove the hatch cover and its back from the deck, paint their joining surfaces with epoxy. Align the holes with the traced lines and tack them together with staples to hold them until the glue sets. Set the hatch covers aside.
Before separating the paired panels drill 1/16″ lacing holes the entire perimeter of the bottom panels, the fore and aft ends of the side panels, and the inside edge of the side decks. Also drill holes along the sides of the centre decks. The holes should be about 5 mm from the edge and 10 to 15 cm apart. Drill lacing holes at each bulkhead station 5 mm from each edge of every panel. You’ll use the holes at the bulkhead locations to align and ‘tack’ the panels together. You’ll drill the remaining lacing holes later.
Refer to the drawing for the offsets and instructions for cutting the bulkheads and cradles. Two of the bulkheads are permanent. The temporary bulkhead helps hold the deck panels in proper position. The cradles hold the hull in its proper shape on the work surface.
Cut several dozen 3″ pieces of 18 gauge copper wire for lacing the panels together. To make the wires easier to thread bend them into a square U shape around the jaws of a pair of pliers about 3/8″ wide. Set the two bottom panels edge to edge on the work surface and stitch them together by threading a piece of wire from the inside out through each pair of holes at the bulkheads. Twist the ends of the wire together. Work from the middle of the panels outward. As you get closer to the ends the panels will begin to fold up. A scrap of wood wired across the centreline amidships will keep the panels from folding up.
Lace a side panel to the bottom with the lacing holes drilled at the bulkhead locations. As you wire the rest of the seam together drill holes in the edge of the side panel across from those in the bottom panel. After you’ve wired the whole chine, wire the other side panel to the bottom, and wire the ends of the side panels together.
With a screwdriver push the wires into the seams between panels. As you push the wire into the crease adjust the panels to meet edge to edge. Tighten the wires with a few more twists.
Set the cradles square to the centreline on the work surface. Set the hull into the cradles and adjust them to sit with their amidships facing edge on the side of the line closest to the end of the hull. Wire the hull to the cradles to pull the panels into contact with the cradles. Drill lacing holes as you need them. Check the seams on the inside to make sure they are still edge to edge. If the cradles are properly aligned the hull should be smooth and symmetrical.
Cut out the pieces for the skeg and its inner and outer trunk. Assemble the outer trunk and coat it with epoxy. Transfer the marks for the location of the skeg opening to the inside of the keel. Bevel the bottom of the outer trunk to fit in the crease between the bottom panels. Wire the outer skeg trunk in place and set the aft deck in place over it. The deck should lie flat across the top of the trunk when it is aligned with the hole in the deck. If it is too long plane the top; if it is too short glue a rectangle of plywood under the deck covering the trunk opening and recut the opening. Remove the aft deck, bed the trunk over the keel with thickened epoxy. Put the aft deck back in place to hold the trunk while the glue cures.
Run a bead of thickened epoxy along all of the inside seams (keel, chines, stems and skeg trunk). Smooth the epoxy into an even fillet deep enough to cover the wires by using a rounded trowel cut from scrap plywood. While the fillet is still wet lay 6-ounce fibreglass tape over the fillets, including those around the skeg trunk. Brush unthickened epoxy over the tape and dab it into the weave until the cloth is saturated and clear. Do not drag the tape or ruin the fillet by being too heavy handed. Let cure. With a brush or a foam roller, coat the entire interior of the hull with unthickened epoxy.
Sand the edges of the glass tape smooth. If you anticipate hard use of the hull on rocky beaches add another layer of tape over the first and slightly staggered to one side. Set the foredeck and the aft deck in place on the hull and hold them in place with wire ties at the bulkhead positions. Drill the rest of the lacing holes on a diagonal through the deck and side at the same time, aiming to have the drill pass through the inside corners of the panels.
Remove the decks and vacuum the hull clean. Seal the inside of the hull and the underside of the foredeck and the aft deck with unthickened epoxy. Brush some epoxy on the top of the skeg trunk. Set the decks, ‘dripping side down’ onto the ends of the hull. Because you drilled the lacing holes straight through the corners it is easy to thread a straight pieces of wire through the holes. Align the edges as you twist the wires together.
Roll the hull on edge. Cut the handle off of a brush and screw it at a right angle to the end of a stick. With it paint some thickened epoxy into the deck seam. Whittle a point onto the end of another stick. Cut a length of fibreglass tape, skewer one end on the point and stretch it along the stick. Poke the stick and the fibreglass into the end of the kayak and guide the tape onto the seam. Use your long-handled brush first to guide the tape into the seam and then to fill the weave with epoxy. Fillet and tape the other interior seams, including the top of the skeg trunk, and set the kayak back in its cradles. Let cure.
Rip two strips of 4 mm plywood about 10 cm wide and long enough to span the athwartships edge of each deck. Trim these butt plates to fit, sand the inside surface of the deck to prepare it for gluing. Glue the butt plates to the underside of the decks.
Before you install the permanent bulkheads and re-fit the centre temporary bulkhead you’ll have to round their keel and chine corners to fit over the taped seams.
Rewire the centre bulkhead. Position the two permanent bulkheads and tack them in place with a few brads driven through the hull. Lay a fillet of thickened epoxy between the permanent bulkheads and the hull and tape the seams. You can use a single length of tape on each side of the bulkheads, just snip the tape where it puckers up at the corners of the bulkhead, and dab the edges down as you saturate the tape with unthickened epoxy. When the glue has cured pull the brads.
Glass the floor of the cockpit, and put an extra layer of glass in the area where your heels will rest.
The side decks go on next, laced to the side panels and the deck butt plates. You are ready to put the centre deck in place. You’ll need extra long wires to give yourself room to thread the wires from the outside. Don’t twist the ends of the wires together after you’ve threaded them; just put a sharp bend in the ends to keep the wires from slipping out. Drill a few pairs of holes down through the ends of the deck into the butt plate and thread U-shaped pieces of wire from the inside out (if you have trouble getting the centre deck and side decks wrapped around the permanent bulkheads, you can undo the wires and carefully shave the tops of the bulkheads down and trim the centre-deck/side-deck seams. When you are satisfied with the fit wire the side decks at the sheer and glue their ends to the butt plates).
Once all of the wires are in place, elevate the deck with a few scraps of wood, mix up some slightly thickened epoxy and coat the butt plate joints. Drop the centre deck in place and draw the edges together with the wire ties. Work some thickened epoxy into the seams (keep the glue away from the wires). With some more thickened epoxy, fill the other exterior seams.
When the glue has set cut one leg of each centre deck wire tie and pull it out with the other leg. Clip all other wires flush. Sand all of the exterior seams smooth. Wherever the plywood edges meet at a sharp angle (along the sheer and at the ends) sand the edges to a slight radius.
Mix up some unthickened epoxy and brush it on one seam at a time. Lay a strip of glass tape over the seam and wet it out with unthickened epoxy. Work the deck first, let it cure overnight, then flip the hull and tape the exterior hull seams. The glass tape will probably pucker at the turn from the keel line to the ends. Snip the puckers and dab the flaps down flat.
Draw the cockpit opening pattern on a sheet of posterboard and trace it on the hull between the marks for its location and on both sides of the centreline. Drill a pilot hole to the inside of the line and cut the opening with a saber saw. Remove the temporary centre bulkhead.
Put the kayak upside down on a pair of sawhorses. Poke your head into the inside of cockpit. Cut strips of glass tape for the seams on the inside of the deck, along the sheer and across the tops of the bulkheads. Coat any bare wood with unthickened epoxy to seal it.
Tape the seams between the deck and the top of the bulkhead in the end compartments. It’s a long reach from the aft hatch. If you find it too difficult to get the glass in place you can get by with a fillet of thickened epoxy applied by hand (with gloves of course).
The coaming is built up of a stack of 4 mm plywood arcs. Use the cockpit pattern to trace the inside edge of the arcs and use a compass set at 25 mm to draw the outside edge. At the forward end of the cockpit cut two arcs, one to span the centre deck section and a second one to span its middle half. Feather the edges of these two arcs so that they will provide a smooth transition for the coaming arcs wrapping up from the side decks.
The top layer of the coaming is cut to a 45 mm width. Clamp all the sections together for a dry fit. If you don’t have a lot of clamps to hold all the coaming sections together for gluing you can use the split pipe ring clamps. When everything’s aligned drill holes every eight inches or so through the coaming sections and the deck. The holes should be big enough to allow you to slip nails through to keep the coaming sections aligned.
Disassemble the coaming sections and paint all the contact surfaces with slightly thickened epoxy and restack the sections. Slip nails into the alignment holes and clamp the whole mess together. With some thickened epoxy lay fillets between the coming and the deck and on the underside of the top layer of the coaming. Wipe up the excess glue.
For strength and abrasion resistance the outside of the kayak is sheathed in 6-ounce glass cloth and epoxy. Sand the edges of the taped seams to a feather edge. Where the tape crosses the seams sand very lightly; you don’t want to sand through the glass fibres.
When the hull is smooth brush off the dust. Spread the glass cloth over the hull. Fold the forward half of the cloth back over the stern. Paint the forward half of the hull with unthickened epoxy. Pull the cloth back over the bow and brush out the wrinkles’. Smooth the cloth forward at the bow and cut the excess cloth parallel to the stem, leaving about an inch of cloth to wrap around the leading edge. Wet the cloth with epoxy, using only enough to fill the weave and turn it transparent.
Repeat the process for the stern. When the epoxy is partially cured trim the edges at the sheer with a razor blade.
After the epoxy has cured overnight, flip the hull rightside up and sand the edges of the hull sheathing. Glass the decks, wrapping the cloth an inch around the sheer and up the coaming sides. When the glue has partially cured use a sharp knife to trim the glass at the hatch openings. Sand smooth and slightly rounded.
Sand the inside of the cockpit coaming smooth around the edges. Cut a Y strip of fibreglass cloth on the bias (at 45 degrees to the weave of the cloth) and bed this strip in epoxy on the inside of the cockpit coaming. If you use fibreglass tape here, snip the edges to get it to mould to the coaming. Let cure. Sand smooth.
The deck line fittings (I have 18) consist of blocks of mahogany or other hardwood about 5.5 cm square and 2.5 cm thick. They have a 1″ hole 5/8″ deep in one face and a 3/16″ hole drilled in one edge and across the grain of the wood and across the 1″ hole. Cut lengths of 3/16″ brass or stainless rod. Paint the entire block with unthickened epoxy and slip the metal rods into the 3/16″ holes. Put aside to cure.
Drill a 1″ hole in the deck wherever you want a fitting. Don’t drill so close to the sheer that you don’t have enough room for the fitting. Sand the area under the deck around the hole to prepare the surface for gluing. Sand the top of the block and coat it with slightly thickened epoxy. Hold it in place with a loop of string and stick and a block. To position fittings at holes that you can’t reach, thread a string down through the hole, tie it to the fitting and pull it into place. Use cotton swabs to clean up any epoxy that drips into the fitting.
Cut through the keel to open the skeg outer trunk slot. Sand the inside edges away enough to allow for the thickness of a wrap of fibreglass tape around the bottom and into the trunk. Apply fibreglass tape with unthickened epoxy.
Sand the entire hull to prepare it for finishing. If the weave of the cloth is showing on the surface, paint on a coat of epoxy and sand again until the surface is smooth. Fill in any hollows with thickened epoxy and trowel the area smooth. When the surface is smooth let the epoxy cure for a couple of days.
The inner trunk of the skeg is assembled in the same manner as the outside trunk. It houses the skeg, and serves to protect the watertight integrity of the outer trunk. It is removable to allow for a set of wheels to be attached to the kayak. It has two holes for dowels that serve as fairleads for the operating line, and a 3/16″ hole for the pivot rod. Assemble the inner trunk (with the exception of the pivot rod) and coat it with epoxy. The inner trunk should slip without friction into the outer trunk. When the inner trunk is fully inserted into the outer trunk fair the inner trunk to lie flush with the hull.
The skeg blade is glued up of two layers of plywood. It is rounded on its leading edge and tapered along its trailing edge. It is not reinforced with fibreglass – in the event of an impact you’ll want the skeg, not the hull, to break. There are two 1/8″ holes in the top edge of the skeg and a 3/8″ hole in the side connecting the two smaller holes. The operating line is simply laced through the two small holes. Friction is enough to hold the line in place. The skeg should be free to pivot in the inner trunk.
The hatch covers are secured by 1/4″ brass bolts and wooden toggles. A piece of 1/8″ X 3/8″ brass flat bar is drilled, tapped, threaded under the bolt head and soldered there. The bolt slips through a nylon washer, a stainless steel fender washer, and a rubber disk. On the other side of the hatch cover the bolt slips through two wooden toggles with a Nylok nut recessed into one edge. The Nylok nut provides enough friction to swing the toggle back and forth when closing or opening the hatch. Small blocks of wood glued onto the back of the hatch cover stop the toggles to align them parallel with the hatch for removing it, and across it to pull the hatch down hard into the deck. A 1/4″ X 3/4″ self adhesive neoprene gasket (marine hatch gasket or home weather-stripping) provides a watertight seal.
The hatches are pretty effective. After hour-long rolling practices there may be only a half cup of water in the compartment. The metal thumbscrew arrangement is simple, but it could use some improvements to make it easier on the hands.
Before you begin painting wash the hull and other parts with soap and water to remove the amine blush, a film on the surface of cured, epoxy that will interfere with the proper adhesion of paint.
I primed the kayak with a two-part epoxy primer and painted it with bright red one-part polyurethane paint.
After the paint has dried lace 3/16″ bungie cord in a criss-cross pattern on the decks and 3/16″ nylon line around the perimeter. Tie PVC pipe hand grips into loops of line run through the deck line fittings in the ends of the kayak. Thread a long loop of 1/8″ line through the holes in the top of the skeg. The loop should come within a foot of the deck line fitting just forward of the cockpit. A loop of bungie cord tied into the deck fitting has a plastic clip on it to pull the skeg control line taught. A monkey’s fist knot or a small whiffle ball gives you a control knob for the skeg that you can use without taking your hand off the paddle. Apply a strip of self adhesive neoprene gasket to the lip on the backside perimeter of each hatch cover.
For a seat I used hot-melt glue to assemble sheets of ethafoam into a removable unit that pads my seat, hips, back and thighs. Another stack of ethafoam slides up against the forward bulkhead. To prevent your heels from wearing through the hull install a couple of pieces of plastic self-adhesive non-skid tread.
Fully rigged the kayak weighs about 45 pounds. Its comparatively low volume and profile will limit the amount of cruising cargo, so you’ll have to leave the kitchen sink behind. Its stability is something you should be able to grow into, but it is not a boat for lounging about. On afternoon workout paddles I can keep my speed comfortably at around 4.7 knots. Its low profile makes it a very well-behaved boat when the wind picks up.
This article and the accompanying images (in the printed version) were originally published in ‘Sea Kayaker’ magazine in the Fall 1994 issue, and have been reproduced here with the kind permission of the Editor of ‘Sea Kayaker’ magazine.
- 4 mm marine-grade plywood, okoume or sapele, 4 sheets, 2.5 x 1.225 metres (sheet sizes may vary)
- Marine grade epoxy for bonding and glass sheathing, 1 1/2 gallons
- Thickening agent for epoxy filleting, wood flour or microspheres
- 6 ounce fibreglass cloth: 32″ x 6 yards for hull, 24″ x 6 yards for deck
- 3″ fibreglass tape, 6 ounce to 9 ounce weight, 250 feet (note: buy tape with woven edges only – tape with cut, sized edges will not work with epoxy)
- 18 gauge copper wire, 50 feet
- 3/16″ braided nylon line, 40 feet
- 3/16″ bungie cord, 30 feet
- 1/8″ nylon line
- 3/4″ x 1/4″ neoprene gasket strip, 8 feet
- 3/8″ x 1/8″ brass flat bar, 4 pieces at 2″
- 1/4″ x 20 round head brass marine screw,
- 4 1/4″ nylock nuts, nylon washers, fender washers, rubber washers, 4 pieces each
- Hardwood for hatch toggles, maple, 4 at 1″ x 3/4″ x 11″
- 3″ of 1/8″ brass of stainless steel rod
- Blocks of hardwood for deck line fittings, 18 pieces at 2″ x 2″ x 1″
- 1″ ethafoam for cockpit padding
- Rubber gloves
- Disposable bristle brushes for epoxy
- Measuring and mixing cups for epoxy
- White vinegar (for cleaning up epoxy – I use it mostly to clean my rubber gloves)
- Hard plastic squeegee for spreading epoxy
- Epoxy primer
- Foam brushes for enamel
Offsets for hull panels, decks, bulkheads and cradles are available from Sea Kayaker magazine as a reprint for US$3.